The bedouin of the Sinai share with other Egyptians the jalabiyya, a
long, hooded robe that is a standard form of clothing both in the teeming
metropolis of Cairo and in the solitary plains of the Sinai.

The most easily recognised aspect of a
bedouin's attire is his headgear--which consists of the kufiyya-cloth
and 'agal-rope that constitute proper attire for a bedouin man. The
headrope in particular carries great significance, for it is indicative of
the wearer's ability to uphold the obligations and responsibilities of
manhood. Bedouin women, too, signal their status with their headgear--while
all women are required to keep their hair covered, married women in
particular wrap about their forehead a black cloth known as 'asaba.
Bedouins mark their graves with exceptional
simplicity, placing one ordinary stone at the head of the grave and one at
its foot. Moreover, it is traditional to leave the clothes of the deceased
atop the grave, to be adopted by whatever needy travellers may pass by. |
Few places in the desert are capable of supporting the life of even a small
community for an extended period of time, and so the bedouin of
Arabia, Sinai and the Negev, would stay on the move. With herds of sheep and
goats as well as camels, the bedouin migrated from one meagrely fertile area
to another--each offered sustenance and shelter for time, while the others
were naturally replenished.
In such an unforgiving environment, any
violation of territorial rights was viewed with severe disfavor. It is a
hallmark of bedouin culture that such trespasses were neither easily
forgiven nor quickly forgotten. At the same time, a shared respect for the
dangers and hardships of the desert imbued bedouin culture with a profound
and justly celebrated sense of hospitality. In the vast silence and brooding
solitude of the Sinai, simply encountering another person was--and in some
regions still is--a rather unusual and noteworthy event. A new face was
cause for great interest, for happy generosity and careful etiquette, and
for common civility, all values celebrated in bedouin poetry, sayings, and
songs. |
A bedouin tent is customarily divided into two sections by a
woven curtain known as a ma'nad. One section, reserved for the men
and for the reception of most guests, is called the mag'ad, or
'sitting place.' The other, in which the women cook and receive female
guests, is called the maharama, or 'place of the women.'
Having been welcomed into a bedouin tent, guests are honored, respected, and
nourished, frequently with copious amounts of fresh, cardamom-spiced coffee.
Visitors are also cause for some festivity,
including music, poetry, and on special occasions even dance. The
traditional instruments of bedouin musicians are the shabbaba, a
length of metal pipe fashioned into a sort of flute, the rababa, a
versatile, one-string violin, and of course the voice. The primary singers
among the bedouin are the women, who sit in rows facing each other to engage
in a sort of sung dialogue, composed of verses and exchanges that
commemorate and comment upon special events and occasions.
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