Sierra Madre- Seamana Santa Ride
Easter with the Indians
Semana Santa, or Holy Week is the most exciting fiesta in the Copper Canyon region. Thousands of Tarahumara Indians leave remote ranchitos to walk hours, even days, to isolated religious centers where they participate in ceremonies that originated with Jesuit priests over three centuries ago.
The trip begins with three days of 3-6 hour familiarization rides featuring visits to archaeological sites and Tarahumara ranchitos. After-dinner talks acquaint riders with Tarahumara culture and customs. On Thursday riders descend to Naranjo, continuing to Urique on Friday for lunch and a swim with the horses under a spectacular 400-ft-long suspension bridge.
Distant drumbeats signal our horseback approach to the Indian village of Guadalupe Coronado. These booming drumbeats combine with the isolation to create a bizarre feeling of living history. Entering town, riders encounter Indian men painted black and white, they represent devils who personify the evil associated with the crucifixion. As dusk approaches, more devils arrive. Armed with wooden mock weapons, they attack the church, cackle, dance and carry on as if possessed. Meanwhile, officials with wooden lances protect the church and ensure that things do not get out of hand. Darkness and the lighting of campfires signal the start of processions lasting the entire night.
Riders participate in the fiesta, join the candle-lit processions, enter the incense-filled 17th century church to participate in activities and observe the humble offerings and centuries old statues of saints. Five years ago, our Easter group carried a statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe on horseback and presented it to the community. She has since become a revered and permanent part of the church. The Photo Gallery contains a few shots of this memorable Easter.
The beating of drums lasts the night then pandemonium breaks out in the form of ceremonial wrestling between devils and men representing good. Eventually the devils lose and their "king", a colorful effigy of Judas, is burnt along with other symbols of the evil side of Easter. Devils are then rounded up and ceremonially whipped (no blood drawn nor harm done) as they are herded into the church to be cleansed, washed and returned to society as normal people.
Leaving Guadalupe, riders pass through Urique then climb out of the canyon to spend the night at Cerro Gallegos, the most beautiful of all canyon-rim viewpoints. Sunday riders return to the Ranch and a farewell party.
This package also includes provisions for non-riding accompanier. These accompaniers spend the week at the ranch participating in activities and hikes then descend to the canyon for Semana Santa activities, camping with the riders Friday night in Guadalupe and Saturday night on the rim. Accompaniers may rent horses for day rides based on availability.
Itinerary
Day 0: The day before the ride begins -- overnight in Chihuhua, Los Mochis or Cuauthemoc. Overnight is not included, but can be arranged - room rate ~ $80 to $140.
Sunday: Afternoon arrival, check in, dinner and overnight.
Monday and Tuesday: The trip begins with two days of 3-6 hour familiarization rides featuring visits to archaelogical sites and Tarahumara ranchitos. During these rides you receive instruction on mountain riding techniques. After-dinner informal talks acquaint riders with Tarahumara culture and customs.
Late Wednesday morning saddle up for some serious riding and camping. Pass through beautiful El Cajon on your way to the Tarahumara pueblo of Huicorachi where we stay with Doña Nati and her family. Our relationship with Doña Nati is a special one developed over the years, she frequently sits around the campfire with us telling tales of Tarahumara life in times gone by. Every night is different but you may hear how her Uncle hunted with a bow and arrow, how she learned to be a midwife, of her life growing up in a cave, and of herbs and roots she used for curing.
Sometimes even a horse gets tired!
On Thursday riders descend to the Mestizo pueblo of Naranjo for a look at rugged mountain Mestizo culture and a fiesta with Meleton Mancinas and his family. Friday morning's ride is hot and dusty but the Rio Urique awaits for a cooling swim with your horse beneath spectacular canyon walls..
Distant drumbeats signal our horseback approach to the Tarahumara Indian village of Guadalupe Coronado. These booming drumbeats combine with the isolation to create a bizarre feeling of living history. Entering town, riders encounter Devils, Indian men painted black and white who personify evil associated with the crucifixion. As dusk approaches, more devils arrive. Armed with wooden mock weapons, they attack the church, cackle, dance and carry on as if possessed. Meanwhile, officials with wooden lances protect the church and ensure that things do not get out of hand. Darkness and the lighting of campfires signal the start of processions lasting the entire night.
When you are hot & dusty, nothing beats a dip in the river for both horse & rider!
Riders participate in the fiesta, join the candle-lit processions, enter the incense-filled 17th century church to participate in activities and observe the humble offerings and centuries old statues of saints. In 1999, our Easter group carried a statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe on horseback and presented it to the community. She has since become a revered and permanent part of the church. The Photo Gallery contains a few shots of this memorable Easter and a new video even more. Note; In 2002 Doug Rhodes brought a 6-ft high reproduction of the Virgin of Guadalupe from the Basilica in Mexico City. During the night of December 11 he joined a Tarahumara Procession carrying this painting over the same rugged trails you ride. The torch-lit procession arrived on December 12, the day of the Virgin of Guadalupe, at 6:00AM in the morning.
The beating of drums lasts the night then pandemonium breaks out in the form of ceremonial wrestling between devils and men representing good. Eventually the devils lose and their "king", a colorful effigy of Judas, is burnt along with other symbols of the evil side of Easter. Devils are then rounded up and ceremonially whipped (no blood drawn nor harm done) as they are herded into the church to be cleansed, washed and returned to society as normal people.
Return from Guadalupe by vehicle so we arrive in time to rest and enjoy totally different ceremonies in Cerocahui on the night of Holy Saturday. On our return we stop in Urique for lunch then climb out of the canyon to the majestic Cerro Gallegos, the most beautiful of all canyon-rim viewpoints. From Gallegos you can see the rugged trails you rode down to Guadalupe.
Sunday you may opt to attend Easter Mass or just relax prior to departing Monday on the train. But don't forget tonight's farewell party where we share experiences around a warm campfire.
This package also includes provisions for non-riding accompaniers. These accompaniers spend the week at the ranch participating in activities and hikes then descend to the canyon for Semana Santa activities, camping with the riders Friday night in Guadalupe and Saturday night on the rim. Accompaniers may rent horses for day rides based on availability.
Itinerary subject to change
Indigenous People: Among the notable features of the Uruachic region is the variety of native peoples, which include Tarahumara, Guarojios, Pimas, Mexican "mestizos" and mixtures of all. The great mining and timber eras also brought in large numbers of Anglo Saxons -- their contributions to the gene pool can be easily seen in the features of local Mexican hillbillies.
It is also interesting to note that this area was held under almost constant siege by the Apaches for well over a century. When the explorer Carl Lumholtz trekked through over a hundred years ago, he found that memories of the Apache terror were still quite fresh.
Here's a couple of important historical tidbits from Uruachic:
Carolina Rascon was born here in the early 1900's. She grew to be over seven and a half feet tall, and was said to be the world's tallest woman. Her strength was legendary: she once single-handedly loaded a large iron cook stove onto the back of a mule.
Among the more notable pistol duels was a face-off held in 1920 between Rafael Tejo and Federico Rascon at "El Meson". To this day, no one knows who won -- being good shots, both men were found with matching bullet holes in the center of their foreheads.
Suitability:
This is a rugged, physically demanding adventure. Although the horses are no nonsense and well trained, you must be an experienced, confident rider in good physical condition. Rider weight is restricted to 200 lbs. We spend long hours in the saddle and must hike some steep or dangerous sections. Be prepared to cheerfully accept the unplanned and unexpected. Although the guides and Mexican staff are the best, remote travel in the Sierra Madre has risk. This is the real thing....comparable to traveling through the Rocky Mountains in the 1880s. Only the adventurous should consider this trip.
PLEASE COME PREPARED FOR THE UNEXPECTED AND CHANGES IN THE ITINERARY.
WEATHER These trips are scheduled during the dry, cool winter season in the Sierra Madre. Our fall and spring dates will have the warmest temperatures when the canyon bottom can be in the 80's- 90's and the rim at night in the 50's. November through February dates are cooler with the canyon bottom in the 60's and 70's (nights 50's) and the rim 40's-70's (nights down to freezing). Winter storm systems periodically affect this area.
Route of the Railway - from Chihuhua to Los Mochis
Route Height:
