|
Copper Canyon Hiking Tour
It would take one or two lifetimes to
fully explore a country as broad and varied as the
Copper Canyon. We realize, of course, that few people
have that kind of time. For those on a tighter schedule,
we’ve put together a ten-day experience that combines an
introduction to the Copper Canyon’s history and diverse
cultures with some of its most spectacular—and least
known—natural features. Beginning in El Paso, our
adventure takes us through Cuauhtemoc and on into the
Sierra Madre. Led by some of the country’s most
experienced naturalist guides, you’ll set out on an
unforgettable six-day burro-supported trek into the very
heart of the Copper Canyon wilderness.
 ZZ-OUT-72
10 days/ 9 nights $ 2,300 from El Paso
Single supplement is $250 if requested.
2007 Dates:
11/17-11/26
12/24-01/02
2008 Dates:
02/18-02/28 03/08-03/17
04/03-04/12
10/02-10/11 12/20-12/19
Min/Max: 6 to 14
Small group surcharge (4-5 only) is
$250 pp.
What makes the Copper Canyon so special ? Think of the region as both a
Wonder-of-Nature and a unique time capsule. The Copper Canyon, deep in the heart
of the Sierra Madre, remains virtually unknown and unexplored by both Americans
and Mexicans.!” The natural beauty of the region is obvious, but with so little
information available, most visitors fail to realize that a long and fascinating
human story also lies just below the surface. Starting with the early Mogollon
and Basket People, through five centuries of Spanish exploration, Jesuit
missions, revolutions, banditry and silver bonanzas, the Sierra Madre’s
historical roots are deeply interwoven with its Native American and Mexican
cultures.
Isolated from the outside world for centuries with terrain so rugged and
undeveloped that even today, it can only be reached on foot by a few narrow
roads or along a single cliffhanging railway. Crowned by immense forests of pine
and oak, these wild canyon lands crisscrossed with streams, rivers, mountain
peaks and remote plateaus remain sparsely populated with only a scattering of
Tarahumara Indians, prospectors and Mexican ranch families. The Copper Canyon is
one of the earth’s richest and most diverse eco-systems, with a range of climate
zones that seems custom made for hikers, explorers
Itinerary
DAY ONE> Our first day together begins at seven a.m., when our group gathers in
the lobby of the Quality Inn hotel near the airport in El Paso. We’ll exchange
introductions over breakfast and fill you in on the details of our upcoming trip
together. Once the van is loaded, we’ll head for the border. Be sure to double
check the equipment list to make sure you’ve got the necessary documents.
Entering Mexico: ¡Bien venidos! (Welcome!) Contrary to what your brother-in-law
may have told you, the red tape to enter Mexico is simple and straightforward.
After some brief paperwork, we’ll soon be on our way through Ciudad Juarez. (If
our group is too large for the van, some of us will travel to Cuauhtemoc by bus.
Mexico’s late-model “super buses” are not only safe and quite comfortable.) The
divided highway heads straight south across the arid Chihuahua Plateau. This is
serious cowboy country, with wide-open views, occasional sand dunes and
scattered stands of ocotillo, mesquite and creosote bush. During our lunch break
on a quiet side road, you’ll have a chance for photographs and a good stretch.
Departing from the Pan-American highway, we drive over the El Nido mountains,
onto the high plateau through Meninite farm country, to the town of Cuauhtemoc.
This typical northern Mexican town has cowboy hats and saddle shops surrounding
the traditional central “zocolo” plaza. We stay at the five star (this place is
nice but we would not call it quite this stellar!) Los Cumbres Inn which sits
above the busy streets on a quiet dessert hillside. By the way, if you haven’t
done so already, you’ll have time this afternoon to exchange U.S. dollars or
traveler’s checks into Mexican pesos. You’ll want pesos for shopping, beverages
and the few meals that aren’t included in the cost of the trip. ($100-150 should
cover it.) Dollars are widely accepted but you’ll get a better exchange rate at
one of the convenient banks or casas de cambio (money exchange shops) in the
down town area. Major credit cards are also accepted in Cuauhtemoc and Los
Mochis. By evening, we’ll have all worked up a good appetite. You can count on a
tasty introduction to northern-style Mexican food when we have dinner in one of
the town’s best restaurants.
|
 |
|
DAY TWO> We leave Cuauhtemoc and drive our
van to Divisidero along the new modern highway that parallels the
railroad. The trip is several hours shorter than on the train and
allows a leisurely departure from Cuauhtemoc with all of the same
views. In many ways, the trip is a journey back through time, it is
understandable if the sight of horse-drawn carts, cowboys on
horseback, and wood smoke curling from mud-chinked cabins makes us
doubt our senses. Is this real or is it a vast set for some epic
western movie? As much as its timeless nature may surprise us,
however, the Sierra Madre certainly is real. In fact, it would take
volumes to adequately describe the history, ecology and people of
this amazing country. In the days to come, we’ll do our best to
share with you some of the information and experiences we’ve
gathered during our years here. We’ll arrive into the Sierra Madres
sometime in the early afternoon. After all, this is Mexico.
Schedules, itineraries, appointments and train time tables are not
carved in stone. As a matter of fact, in offering these trips to
Mexico, we do our best to honor and observe the customs of our host
country. In this case, it means we stay at a rustic lodge belonging
to the Mancinas family we have worked with for over 30 years, where
we are treated to traditional Mexican fare and local family
friendliness.
DAY THREE> After breakfast we’ll introduce you to our Mexican
and Tarahumara crew; Geronimo, Hilo, Teresa,—whichever members of
the Mancinas clan are along for your trip, their company will be a
real treat. In fact, one of Carl’s greatest pleasures in doing these
Copper Canyon treks has been the opportunity to work with the
Mancinas family. They’ve been with us since the Sixties and it
definitely shows. In addition to telling great stories, Carl says
he’s never seen a more skilled, yet easy-going crew. Once the burros
are packed, we’ll be off! Be aware that this trail is used only by
the Tarahumara and enters terrain that is both rugged and confusing.
Even the most experienced hiker would soon be seriously lost on the
complex maze of narrow paths and old Spanish mining trails that
crisscross this remote country. To really explore such rugged
country, a well-trained pack animal is almost a necessity. In
organizing these trips, Amy likes to brag that our coffee is
strong—but so are the burros. In fact, our burros do virtually all
of the heavy lifting on this trip—and the crew takes care of the
chores. This leaves the rest of us free to set our own pace. By
carrying light daypacks with cameras, canteens and basic trail
essentials, we can enjoy the canyon experience without breaking our
backs. Our descent from the highlands to the bottom of the Urique
Canyon will take the better part of two days. We usually hike about
4 to 6 hours a day. Allowing for the ups-and-downs of side canyons,
the elevation change on our winding trail is about 6,000 feet. In
this country, each view is worth a thousand photographs, so we’ll
limit the description to a single word: Awesome! We arrive at camp
after a steep rocky descent and soak our feet while the crew attends
to the burros. Gary-Amy, Cathy-Mike or whichever combination of two
guides that lead each trek, prepare the nightly batch of special
canyon Margaritas that we sip while awaiting Teresa's near-gourmet
campfire dinner.
DAY FOUR> Continuing our descent, we’ll definitely note the
transition from the temperate highlands to the warmer, sub-tropical
canyon. Hiking through a series of hanging valleys, our day begins
with the clear, chime-like serenade of the Brown backed
Solitaire—and will likely end accompanied by frantically squawking
parrots. The unique plant life of the Sierra Madre adds to this
trail’s interest. In the space of a few hours we might see cactus
growing in Tarahumara apple orchards, kapok trees, cypress, organ
pipe, wild grape and countless varieties of oak and pine.
Arriving at the Urique River in the afternoon, we’ll camp for the
next three nights on a sandbar. As the sun disappears behind the
cliffs, we are free to relax or to seek a private nook among the
huge, polished boulders. Though the river can be quite cool, someone
inevitably finds the warm, sandy beach and turquoise-green pools to
be an irresistible invitation to go swimming.
SIDEBAR: Over the years, I’ve found a lot of fine places in
Mexico. Among them, this river camp rates very high on my list of
personal favorites. I’m not only attracted by its isolation, but I
find a sense of peace and solitude between these sheer, towering
walls that is almost tangible. While I’m here, I particularly enjoy
reading in Romayne Wheeler’s book, "Life Through The Eyes of a
Tarahumara:" Wheeler is a composer and poet who has lived among the
Tarahumara for many years. In simple, straightforward language, he
offers us samples of Tarahumara wisdom. “There are places that have
great strength for one that knows how to understand and feel. They
are places of unique power that comes out of the depths of the
earth. It can be a place apart, somewhere in the fields, in the
mountains, surrounded by rocks or boulders, at the entrance of a
cave, at the high summit or at the rim of a canyon.....” Carl Franz,
author, The People’s Guide to Mexico
DAYS FIVE AND SIX> You’ll have two full days in which to
experience the beauty of this canyon. Although we certainly
encourage rest and contemplation, there are at least two especially
noteworthy day hikes to lure you away from camp. The river passes
through a very narrow gorge on these jaunts, so we’ll be wading,
helping each over boulders and dodging deep pools on our way to hot
springs and hidden waterfalls. This is more of a scramble than a
hike, so the pace can be slow and relaxed. Or we split in two, and
allow the hardcore hikers to take the overland route for a truly
world class hike. The birding can also be good, so be sure to keep
an eye peeled for parrots and trogons.
DAY SEVEN> It takes a while to break camp and load the
burros, so we’ll leave the crew to their chores and begin our climb
out of the canyon shortly after breakfast. Now that we’re all ‘old
hands’ at Copper Canyon trekking, you’ll undoubtedly note many
things that were missed on the inbound hike. If you’re lucky, the
intricate play of light and shadow on the cliffs above us may even
reveal rock paintings or traces of ancient Indian dwellings. Whether
you spy a simple shard of pottery beside the trail, or the tumbled
stone walls of a shepherd’s hut, there’s always something new to
discover. To be truthful, there’s also another reason to sightsee
and take it easy: it gives the burros an opportunity to overtake and
pass us. In fact, if we plan it right, we’ll roll into camp just
about the time the coffee perks.
A few words about the Tarahumara: According to the local people, we
are the only outsiders to use this trail in many, many years.
Although this particular canyon route passes through country that is
very sparsely inhabited, there is always a chance that we’ll meet
Tarahumara, especially near our higher camps. It is important to
know, however, that many of these people are so shy that they may
prefer to observe us from a distance. When meeting on the trail, for
example, it is not unusual for Tarahumara women and children to slip
away as a stranger approaches, or to firmly turn their backs and
refuse to speak. Our crew’s experience and rapport with the
Tarahumara is considerable. To maintain relationships of mutual
trust and respect, however, we must never impose by taking
photographs or approaching occupied dwelling caves and cabins
without invitation. As they come to know us better, the Tarahumara
women may offer beautifully woven baskets, dolls, drums and other
small handicrafts for purchase. We encourage this, as it provides
their families a small but very important cash income.
DAY EIGHT> Our final day on the trail takes us back up the
winding “staircase” trail to the top of the mesa. An optional side
trek takes us to a Mogollon era cliff dwelling with potsherds and
human remains. Depending on where we camped the night before, we’ll
complete our trek out of the canyon around early afternoon. Back at
the lodge after hot showers we’ll gather for cocktails and rehash
our adventure together over a celebratory dinner.
DAY NINE> We offer two options:
1) Ride the train down to the coast at Los Mochis then fly back to
El Paso or home via Tucson.
2) Return with us in the Van to El Paso.
Option 1-Home via Los Mochis:
We’ll begin by spoiling ourselves with a leisurely breakfast of
huevos rancheros, fruit, biscuits and coffee. We’ll pack our gear
and say our good byes. We’ll have some time for shopping before we
board the afternoon train.
Parting ways from the guides who return the van to El Paso, you
continue on unescorted. You needn’t worry! you are met at the
train station in Los Mochis, delivered to the Santa Anita Hotel and
also to the airport the following day. The trip through the Sierra
Madre to the coastal plain is considered one of the most
spectacular train rides in the Americas. As the train winds through
dozens of tunnels and over countless bridges, you are treated to
an instant replay of our trek into the canyons. Arriving that
evening in Los Mochis, you’ll be met at the depot and driven to the
deluxe Santa Anita hotel. We recommend laying over another day to
visit Topolobambo and the nearby beaches . Ask us about helping with
arrangements and suggestions
The additional flight from Los Mochis and train fare makes your
vacation a bit more more expensive. Air fares vary daily and the
cost of the train is currently (January 2006) at around $60. We
do however cover the cost of the hotel Santa Anita and related
transfers as part of the trip service (add current train fare to
cost of the program).
DAY TEN> The next morning you’ll be driven from the hotel to the
airport. There are convenient flights from Los Mochis to gateway
cities in the American west and southwest.
Option 2- Home via El Paso:)
Back in the dust covered van, we bounce along as Lyle
Lovett and Ian Tyson’s Cowboy ballads blare out of the speakers. We
strike out for El Paso.
The scenery is striking and lonely, vast high land plains punctuated
abruptly by steep isolated volcanic peaks. Rolling on, we soon
hit the major four lane leading from Chihuahua to Ciudad Juarez,
Some of us read or quietly visit. Relaxed, thinking about home,
jobs, projects to return to, we cross the boarder into the late
afternoon traffic and congestion of El Paso. We snack on the
drive back then cover the cost of your room at the Quality Inn.
Breakfast is included. Someone asks “ when’s the next trip?”
Day TEN> The Quality Inn courtesy van delivers you to the nearby El
Paso airport for flights home at your convenience.
*Note: we may find it necessary to change our route and itinerary
due to weather conditions or other unforeseen events.
SUITABILITY This adventure involves
several days of moderate to strenuous hiking over rugged terrain.
The trails, barely more than goat paths, are steep, with loose
volcanic scree making the down-hills particularly difficult.
However, all gear is carried by burros with the exception of a light
day pack with water and items for the day. The descent involves
@3500 feet (9-10 miles) in one day of the two day descent as the
first available spring determines where we can camp. Depending on
which day we decide to make the long descent , the other is much
shorter with the following days being optional before climbing @3500
feet up in one day and @2500 feet the next. We try to allow people
to go at their own pace, dividing the guides to allow the fast
walkers to be out ahead and the slower, under no pressure,
behind. Good health and good physical condition are essential but
age is not always a factor.
WEATHER These trips are scheduled during
the dry, cool winter season in the Sierra Madres. Our fall and
spring dates will have the warmest temperatures when the canyon
bottom can be in the 80's- 90's and the rim at night in the 60's.
November through February dates are cooler with the canyon bottom
in the 60's and 70's (nights 50's) and the rim 40's-50's (nights
30's). Winter storm systems periodically affect this area
(particularly Dec-Jan) and can cause freezing temperatures and snow
on the rim and rain in the canyon bottom with the lowest recorded
temperature at 45 degrees. In Cuauhtemoc it is usually warm,
ranging from 50-80 degrees although night-time temperatures in the
winter can drop to freezing.
DOCUMENTS- Proof of citizenship is
needed in the form of a passport (preferable), or official birth
certificate from the courthouse with seal (not from the hospital
with your feet) accompanied by picture I.D.
MEETING TIME AND PLACE: Time: 7am on the
morning of departure. Please leave your bags in your room and we
will breakfast together. Place: The lobby of the Quality Inn and
Suites, 6099 Montana Ave, El Paso , TX 79925, 915-772-3300. Specify
you are an Adventure Specialists client and receive our special rate
of $45 (good for one to four in a room). They offer free airport
pick up from 8am-midnight. Vehicles may be parked here during the
trip. On the final day of the trip, those flying out of Los Mochis
arrive in Tucson at mid-day and should allow 2 hours between
international flights.
EXCLUSIONS: Air and train transportation,
Meals in El Paso, Cuauhtemoc and Los Mochis, items listed on the
equipment list, tips for staff/guides and hotel staff. Costs
resulting from illness or injury and emergency evacuation, program
changes and delays beyond our control.
STAFF COPPER CANYON – One of the following leaders along with an
assistant guide accompany each trip: Amy Finger, Carl Franz, Liz
Nichol, Jim Klein, Cathy Waterman, Mike Huckaby and Gary Ziegler
along with Jilo and Geronimo Mancinas.
READING LIST:
1) Franz, Carl. People’s Guide to Mexico
2) Lumhotz, Carl. Unknown Mexico
3) Schwatka, Frederick. In the Land of the Cliff Dwellers
4) Bennett & Zing. The Tarahumara
5) Kennedy, John G. Tara humara of the Sierra Madre
6) Fontana, Bernard. Tarahumara: Where Night is the Day of the
7) Fisher, Richard. Mexico’s Copper Canyon
8) Shepard, Grant. The Silver Magnet
9) Villasenor, Victor Rain of Gold.
|
